So, you’ve decided to embrace your natural curls? Welcome to the family. It can be a truly liberating decision. But when you start googling and reading up on natural hair from most websites, it may begin to feel like you are reading a foreign language. What’s a TWA, what does co-wash mean, and what the hell is plopping, and why on earth would I want to do it?

So, I decided to try and put together a short glossary of sorts of natural hair jargon. I figured this would be helpful for you as you read my blog as well as any other natural hair sites you visit. This list is definitely not exhaustive but should get you going. If you can think of any other terms you believe I should add, just shout them out in the comments.  Or if you come across any abbreviations or phrases that aren’t included but you would like to know more about just comment below or message me.

A

ACV

Apple Cider Vinegar – Used as a natural cleanser/hairwash to clarify and define curls. Also used as a rinse to close hair follicles.

ALS

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate or Ammonium Laureth Sulfate. These are the lathering agents in shampoo that can be drying and may contribute to hair damage and hair loss. This is why some companies tout sulfate-free on product labels.

APL

Arm Pit Length. This is a way of describing the length of a person’s hair. If a strand of hair can be stretched out to reach your armpit it qualifies as APL.

B

BAA

Big A*s Afro. This is used to describe a very large, picked-out afro.

BAGGYING

A method of soaking the hair with conditioner and then covering the hair in a plastic bag, shower cap, Saran Wrap or even a simple plastic shopping bag for several hours. Baggying can also work by applying conditioner just the ends of the hair.

BANDING

We use this technique to stretch hair in a heatless manner. Achieved by holding a section of hair taught and adding elastic hair bands along the length of the hair.

BANTU KNOT OUT

Hairstyle achieved by creating bantu knots all around the head, letting them set, then unraveling them to be left with defined curls.

BC

Big Chop. When you chop off all your relaxed/Chemically treated hair and are left with only natural hair.

BRAID AND CURL (BNC)

Braid–n–Curl. A styling technique where the hair is braided and the ends are set with rollers or rods to create curl definition.

BRAID OUT

A styling technique where the hair is braided to get create curl definition. The hair is then unbraided resulting in a full, crimped hairstyle.

BSL

Bra Strap Length. This is a way of describing the length of a person’s hair. If a strand of hair can be stretched out to reach your bra strap, it qualifies as BSL.

BSS

Beauty Supply Store

C

CARRIER OIL

Oils are a naturals best friend. These are also known as base oils. They are used to dilute pure essential oils that if used on their own might irritate or burn the scalp or skin. Common carrier oils are olive, grape seed and Vitamin E oil. The oil can be a mix or it can be a single vegetable oil. Concentrated oils such as jojoba and argan oil must be diluted in a carrier oil such as olive oil or coconut oil.

CBL

Collar Bone Length. This is a way of describing the length of a person’s hair. If a strand of hair can be stretched out to reach your collar bone it qualifies as CBL.

CG/ The "Curly Girl" Method

Refers to the “Curly Girl” method explained in the book by Lorraine Massey. It is a philosophy for curls that involves, no or low shampoo usage, cone avoidance, and conditioner washing, just to name a few.

CO-WASH

Using conditioner instead of shampoo to cleanse the hair to help retain moisture. Some curlies opt to not use shampoo at all, as they find it to be damaging to their strands. You can use any wash out conditioner to accomplish this, however there are also co-wash products that are meant specifically for this purpose.

COILS

A hairstyle consisting of tiny, sectioned curls all over the head. This style is most commonly seen on hair of short to medium lengths and is achieved by twirling the hair with the fingers or a rattail comb.

CONES

Short for silicones, which are found in hair products to help smooth, protect and add shine to the hair. In some cases, cones have been found to weaken the hair shaft. Cones are avoided if you are adhering to the curly girl method.

CORNROWS

A hairstyle consisting of hair that is braided closely to the scalp using techniques that may involve three or more sections of hair.

CREAMY CRACK

Not so affectionate term used to refer to hair relaxers; nickname was given because many women find it hard to stop getting relaxers when they decide to transition to natural hair and sometimes say they are addicted to them. 

D

DC or DT

Deep Conditioner or Deep Treatment. This is an intense hair treatment that is encouraged after every wash. It strengthens hair and intensely moisturizes when you leave It on your hair for an extended period of time with a heat source (dryer, hot towel or body heat).

DEMARCATION LINE

During the time of transitioning from relaxed to natural hair, this is the point where natural hair and relaxed hair meets. This is where breakage is most likely to occur. So be gentle when handling the two textures.

DENMAN

A brand that sells many different brushes but when we say Denman we refer to a particular style of detangling brush that helps to remove shed hairs, detangle hair, and define your curls easily on your wash day.

DUSTING

Trimming your hair about 1/4 and inch or less. Apparently, it is called this because so little hair is trimmed when you finish it looks like dust on the floor.

E

EO

Essential Oil. Essential oils are the highly concentrated, volatile, aromatic essences of plants. They are non-oily, highly fragrant oils that are extracted from plants and evaporate quickly. Essential Oils such as lemon oil, peppermint oil, olive oil, lavender oil, etc.

EVCO

Extra Virgin Coconut Oil. A carrier oil, or a feeder oil i.e. feeds hair with nutrients.

EVOO

Extra Virgin Olive Oil A carrier oil, or a feeder oil i.e. feeds hair with nutrients.

ENDS

The oldest parts of your hair. They need trimming every so often, and need to be taken the most care of especially if length retention is the goal.

F

FLAT TWIST

A hairstyle where twists are created corn-row style. “Attached” to the scalp all the way instead of loose.

H

HAIR CUTICLE

Hair cells on the hair strand that overlap and protect the inner layers of the hair known as the cortex and the medulla.

HAIR DENSITY

The number of hairs growing on the scalp per square inch. Density is qualified as thin (low), medium or thick (high).

HAIR ELASTICITY

The ability of the hair to be pulled or stretched out and return to its regular shape without breaking or snapping.

HAIR LEGNTHS

APL- Arm Pit Length, BSL- Bra Strap Length, CBL- Collar Bone Length, MBL- Mid Back Length. EL – Ear Length. NL – Neck Length, SL – Shoulder Length.

HAIR POROSITY

The ability of the hair to soak up and retain moisture. The more porous a strand is, the more quickly water will be absorbed into the cuticle. Knowing your hair porosity allows you to choose the right washing, and moisturizing techniques.

HAIR SEBUM

A coating of natural oil that protects the hair and makes it shinier. The straighter the hair, the more easily sebum can travel down the hair strand. Spiraling curls make it difficult for the oil to be distributed evenly down the hair strand and all the way down the shaft to the ends.

HAIR TYPE

A classification of different shapes of curls/hair strands. Ranging from 1A (the straightest hair), to 4C (the kinkiest coiliest hair). Type 2 Wavy Hair. 2A. 2B. 2C. Type 3 Curly Hair. 3A. 3B. 3C. Type 4 Coily Hair. 4A. 4B. 4C. 

HENNA

A natural plant dye that naturalists love for its non-chemical properties. The resulting color can turn out to be orange-red, burgundy or chestnut like depending on your hair.

HG

Holy Grail tested and proven products that are known to work. A group of products that you love and use regularly to care for your hair. These products will differ from person to person.

HIH

Hand in Hair. Spending a lot of time manipulating and touching your tresses. This is a funny way of describing your lack of self-control when it comes to touching your hair.

HUMECTANTS

Ingredients in hair products that help draw moisture from the air and into the hair shaft. The hair can become dry if the air is dry as well, so usage of humectants is recommended when there is moisture is in the air.

J

JCBO/ JAMAICAN BLACK CASTOR OIL

A feeder and a sealant oil (see sealant). Great for re-growing edges.

L

LCO or LOC METHOD

This acronym refers to the application of product to curls in order to help preserve as much moisture as possible. L is leave-in/liquid, O is oil, and C is cream. Different curlies use different products to achieve success with this method.

LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER

A conditioning product that you don’t have to wash out and can leave in your hair. See LOC, LCO, or LOC on how to use.

LEGNTH CHECK

A technique performed to stretch, measure and record the length of the hair.

LEGNTH RETENTION

Gaining length to the hair by reducing or eliminating breakage from the ends of the hair. Maximum length retention can be achieved by wearing protective styles that require little manipulation and protect fragile ends.

LOCS or DREADLOCKS

A hairstyle consisting of coiled, ropelike strands created from shed hair that “locks” onto itself. Hair is not detangled or combed during the locking process, which causes the strands to bond and form into locs.

LOW MANIPULATION

A way of reducing natural hair breakage. This means doing less styling as much as possible. Using Styles that don’t require restyling every day.  

M

MBL

Mid Back Length. This is a way of describing the length of a person’s hair. If a strand of hair can be stretched out to reach the middle of your back it qualifies as MBL.

N

NATURALVERSARY/NAPPYVERSARY

Celebrated on the date of or day after your last relaxer.  The anniversary of the day you became a natural. If you became fully natural on January 1st, every January first thereafter will be considered your Naturalversary.

NO-POO

No Shampoo. This refers to women who do not use shampoo, ever. Someone who follows a no-poo routine is considered a “CG’er” which is someone who follows the Curly Girl Method. Instead of using shampoo, they will wash their hair with conditioner. Also See Co-wash.

P

PINEAPPELING

Gathering all of your hair in a high, loose ponytail on top of your head with or without loosely wrapping with a satin scarf before going to sleep and gently shaking out in the morning. (Used to preserve the curls overnight).

PJ OR PRODUCT JUNKIE

A person who loves buying hair care products on the quest for the perfect combination of hair concoction (in other words me).

PLOPPING

A quick dry method using a t-shirt or paper towel to dry your hair. It decreases drying times vs. air drying and is much gentler to your hair than towel drying.

PRE-POOING

A treatment applied to your hair prior to shampooing. It usually consists of oils and/or conditioners applied the night before the shampoo or immediately prior, with a heat source to help penetrate. This is usually performed to help the hair maintain necessary moisture during the drying shampoo process.

PROTECTIVE HAIRSTYLE

A style that requires little manipulation, protects the ends of the hair by keeping them tucked away and allows regular moisturizing. Common protective styles are twists, coils, flat twists, braids, and roll, tuck and pin styles.

R

REGIMEN

A daily, weekly, monthly, or yearly, routine that you follow to take care and maintain your hair’s beauty & health.

S

SCAB HAIR

Newly grown hair that is dry, wiry and crinkly. If you recently big chopped and previously had a relaxer, the follicle may have been damaged previously from using the relaxer. Scab hair doesn’t represent the actual texture of your natural hair.

SEALANT

This is product, most often an oil, which is used to lock moisture into your curls.

SEALING

The process of locking moisture in the hair and then sealing it with oils or butters (castor, olive, coconut, safflower, almond oil and shea butter). This is especially important for the ends of your hair.  For sealing to be effective, you should first wet your hair, then add a water-based leave-in conditioner and then seal with an oil.

SEARCH and DESTROY (S&D)

Trimming damage ins in this way is typically done in good lighting, usually in the bathroom, examine your hair ends, and wherever you see a split, or a single strand knot, snip it out. Done periodically. Only use hair scissors for this task. Dull scissors will do more damage.

SHRINKAGE

This term refers to seeing an actual decrease in the length of your hair from its wet to dry states.

SILICONE

Synthetic ingredient that you’ll find in many hair products that aims to make hair soft, silky and shiny but does so by adding a film around each hair strand. Silicones can cause buildup.

SLIP

This is used to describe how slippery a conditioner or detangling product is. In order to properly detangle curls and to get a better-defined curl pattern, you need to create slip. This is because curls without slip will pull and tear. This can be done by using conditioners or oils. When a product has good slip, it means it covers the strands and smoothes them down allowing for easier detangling on wash day.

SLS

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (found in the harsher shampoos- similar properties to ALS). Tends to be very drying to your hair.

SULPHATE

Synthetic ingredients that aim to remove grease and dirt but leave hair super dry. Aim to avoid products that have sulphates in them as much as possible.

T

THREADING

A stretching technique similar to banding (see banding). Using wool or thick thread as you’re pulling your hair taught, wrapping the wool around the length of your hair from root to end, then letting hair dry, and leaving hair stretched as it would in a blowout. Search “African Threading” in Google for visual.

TRACTION ALOPECIA

Hair loss that is a result of rough styling methods especially on a continued basis. Braids that are too tight, too heavy etc. pulling and hurting the scalp.

TRANSITIONING

Typically done instead of doing a BC (see BC), you leave the relaxed hair and grow out your natural hair. Cutting of smaller lengths of natural hair over time. After some months, you’ll have a lot of natural hair growth, with your relaxed ends on the last part of your hair.  People transition for different periods of time depending on what hair length they are comfortable with after the remove all of their relaxed ends.

TWA

Teeny Weeny Afro. Natural hair that is very short.

TWIST AND CURL or TNC

Twist-n-Curl. Twisting the hair with two strand twists and roll the ends on a hair roller/curler.

TWIST OUT

A styling technique where hair is styled in two-strand twists then later released. The hair is allowed to dry either by air drying or sitting under a dryer. The twists are separated back into the two original pieces and separated further to add volume.

TWO STRAND TWISTS

Take two equal sections of hair and twirl one section around the other until you reach the very end of your hair. This is also referred to as double strand twist.

W

WASH AND GO

Washing your hair and letting it air dry. This is also knowns as WNG, and W&G. For this style you simply wash or co-wash your hair, moisturize, add a styler (gel, cream) and GO. Let it air dry or dry with a diffuser.

WASH DAY

You will soon learn that you need to set out some time for you to detangle, wash, condition, deep condition, and style your hair. This day, is called wash day. Find something good to binge on Netflix!

#

2nd-, 3rd-, 4th-DAY HAIR OR DAY 1, 2, 3…HAIR

Phrase used to describe the number of days since you last styled your hair. The first day of a braid-out (see braid-out) is Day 1 Hair, the second day wearing this same style is Day 2 Hair, and so forth.

3A/3B/3C/4A/4B/4C

These represent the Hair Type Classification System created by hairstylist Andre Walker, with 1a being super straight and 4c being a tightly coiled or kinky as you get. Type 3 hair is curly with a visible curl pattern. Type 3 curls can range from big, loose, bouncy ringlets to tight corkscrews. Type 4 is kinky, or very tightly curled, with a less visible curl pattern. Type 4 curls can range from tight zig-zag curls to extremely tight coils. See Also “Hair Type”

• See link here to determine yours: What's my hair type?

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